This blog post is a comprehensive step-by-step instruction of how to convert the 1/24 Tamiya Porsche 956 kit into a “short Tail” version. “Short tail” version 956’s where mostly at the slower and higher down force tracks. The Tamiya kit depicts the faster track tail specification like at Le mans.
This Porsche 956 I will be building for this demonstration will be the Joest Race team New Man Jeans sponsored that Ayrton Senna competed in the 1984 Nürburgring 1000 km his co-drivers were Stefan Johansson and Henri Pescarolo. AT this time Ayrton was not the well known name that he would later become.
I will be showing how to prepare and build with my short tail resin conversion kit. Which can be purchased here at my store HERE. Comes with a rear resin engine cover, rear wing, Ground Effect rear skirts, and rear wing struts.
Indycals produces an accurate sheet for this conversion kit. You can purchase the decals for the short tail version HERE
This conversion is pretty straight forward. There is very minimal work to convert into a short tail version.
Super glue the ground effect tunnel skirts onto the sides of the Tamiya Plastic kit ground effect tunnels. The resin parts will notch into place with the Tamiya plastic edge. Be sure to test fit these. Then glue the square rod piece onto the back end. This part holds the back end of the tail piece into place.
Its always a good idea to test fit the engine cover mulituple times to make sure all the lines are going to match up. I tried my best to make sure the engine cover is within in tolerance but there is so many factors involved with making sure a model is all inline that its best to double check and adjust yourself if needed.
Fill in the seams after the super glue as dried with Bondo spot filler. Then sand down.
Use Tamiya Grey Primer to find any problem areas and then re-sand and re-fill and or re-prime.
Always under any circumstance you must scuff your body with a scratch pad. Do so give the paint to grab onto. Not doing this your paint will flake off or lift when you add other layers of paint.
Resin always needs more clean up work than regular plastic injection kits. The rubber molds and mold release has the tendency to add oil to the surface of the resin. Its highly recommended to wash resin parts with tire Bleach and then use a scratch pad or 400 grit sand paper with Dawn dish washing soap to clean any possible contaminates off.
Taking the proper clean up steps will help reduce the clean up work after the first coat of primer.
Adding Tamiya grey surface primer helps the eye to see any imperfection. Also only use Lacquer paint on resin. Using enamel will cause you problems.
Use a pin vise #61 0.039″ drill to drill out the holes for the resin wing struts.
I purposely made the rear rods of the wing struts a little long for adjustment. Cut these down to the desired rear wing angle.
Test fit the rear wing on the wing struts to make sure everything is lined up. If it looks good super glue the bottoms of the wing struts under the engine cover. Add the glue and let it setup up until the struts are solidly in place.
If everything looks good. Primer the rear wing and make sure its clean and super glue the sides of the wing and fit the wing into the pins of the wing struts
After the imperfections are worked out when using the Tamiya grey surface primer, give the body a few light coats of Tamiya White Surface primer to give the color coats a nice bright white surface to cover over. Tamiya paints spray on very thin and you must have a white surface for the color coats to be applied over. Light coats Tamiya TS-26 Pure White is recommended for the first coat. Let dry for 24 hrs before handling
I recommend adding on the Indycals masking templates to make the masking job way easier. Masking is such a critical part of model building that this reduces the mistakes.
I prefer to use Tamiya Masking tape to mask off my models.
One trick to prevent bleed-though of another color with masking jobs when painting a car with multiple colors is spray a light coat on of the previous color before the next color. In this case I masked off the white and before spraying the Tamiya TS-16 yellow on I sprayed a light coat of white to seal the masking edge to prevent bleed-though of yellow into the white sections.
The easiest color to spray is Tamiya TS-14 Black. Its not critical to have a nice bright white surface to spray over when using black.
After 24 hours pull the masking tape off and clean any paint edge. The next step I prefer to do is apply decals as I like to clear coat over my decals for protection and to be able to polish over the decals. Some people like to polish now, and apply the decals last.
Use Walters Solvaset decal solution for the best results when sticking the decals to the surface. I prefer using Indycals decals whenever possible. The nice futures of Indycals decals is the are fresh, not too think or thick, easier to handle than a lot of decals, Indycals decals always works great with Walthers Solvaset decal setting solution. The white decals are actually WHITE when you apply them over any colored painted surface and have the least amount of transparency than any decal manufacture I know, especially kit decals! Decals for this conversion kit can be purchase from Indycals HERE
After the decals are apply its mostly just following the traditional Tamiya kit instructions and detailing as much as you want.
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