1979 Interscope Porsche 935-79 – Daytona 24 hr winner conversion.

This blog post is for converting the 1/24 Beemax Porsche 935 K2 kit into the 1979 Interscope Daytona 24 hour winning Porsche 935-79 (customer)

About the car

Great pictures of the restored car can be viewed here.

There was some differences in the 935-79 car that need to be implemented, like the front bumper, the external headlights, different rear fenders, and some slight differences with the rear wing end-plates.

The plastic kit to use

The kit used for this conversion is indeed a fantastic kit, produced by Beemax. The fit and finish is nice! You can buy these kits on eBay HERE

The resin conversion kit

This conversion process will require a resin kit from my website HERE. This conversion process will require the use of super glue, Apoxie Sculpt, sanding, and your eye to do some sculpting. Mostly the rear fender and rear wing will require your eye to achieve the best results possible. I tried to make my resin conversion as easy as possible, but situations, like blending out seams and sanding and cutting out areas to fit the specification of the new parts will require some slight scratch building skills. But after you read this how-to blog, you’ll realize it can be done by anyone with a little bit of model building experience. The conversion kit comes with a resin front bumper, Rear fenders, external hood headlights (used at the Daytona 24hrs) with clear light lenses for the hood headlights, Vac-U-Form headlight covers for the bumper, and instructions to do these conversions with how-to instructions for rear wing modifications.

Decals

Decals can be purchased at Indycals HERE be sure to select 1/24 scale

Decals can be purchased at Indycals HERE
Decals can be purchased at Indycals HERE

Rear fender modifications

The areas marked in black need to be cut out. The little side triangle indention needs to be sanded down flush with the rear bumper.

Cut out the areas that are seen in the picture above. I used a Dremel to do this. Use a file and X-acto knife to de-bur the edges.

This will take a little bit of adjusting as you need to slighted sand down the inside edges of the plastic of the kit fender exit. After the kit plastic and the resin fender match up relatively well, use super glue to attach the new resin fender on.

The process of blending is very important in this next step after the super glue has cured on the attachment of the rear fenders. Blending out the seam between the new resin rear fender and plastic of the kit body is very critical.

Study reference pictures to get the best looking radius on the rear fenders

Blending out the plastic kit bodywork and the resin fender on the inside of the fender. Use Apoxie-Sculpt to fill in any un-level areas.

Add Apoxie-Sculpt in the areas where the rear bumpers would normally go. Level it out with the rest of the bumper shape. Also fill in the center rear vents as the Interscope car didn’t have these…

Rear Wing Modifications

This step will require some scratch building skills. I felt it was easy enough for the model builder to do on their own. Its very simple.

The rear wing end-plates need to be glued on with regular plastic glue to weld the parts together. Then let dry until its solid and not gooey

After the glue is done curing sand the bottom edge of the end-plate and round the edge. I recommend looking at this web page for reference to what the rear wing end-plates look like. It has a nice radius on the bottom edges.

Note the rounded edge under the endplate

Next take a file and sand up the inside 90 degree corner of the inside of the end-plates, because we will be adding Apoxie-Sculpt to give a inside rounded edge.

Use some water to sculpt the Apoxie sculpt with a tool or object that has an approximate radius that is needed for the inside corner. This takes a little bit of “eye-balling” skills

It doesn’t need to be absolutely perfect as after the Apoxie-Sculpt dries we will be able to sand it and clean up the radius.

It takes 24hrs for the Apoxie Sculpt to cure. But its very easy to sand and shape.

As you can see it now has the “stock” rounded rear end-plate look, now. The K2 has straight cut and 90 degree edges.

sand and rough up the louvers before squeezing in Apoxie-Sculpt into the louvers and use some water to blend into the gaps.

Use a razor saw to saw off the kit nose and make sure to cut right under the hood.

Super glue on the resin nose on.

Drill out holes on the hood for the external headlights to be fitted on.

Give the body some Tamiya grey surface primer

The Tamiya grey surface primer will show any imperfections. Once there is no imperfections the Black can be added.

I used Tamiya TS-14 Black on this body.

Apply the Indycals decals to the body. I recommend using Walters Solvaset Decal Solution

Drill out the little center holes in the headlight cutouts on the resin bumpers in order to fit the kit headlight lamps onto.

Paint chrome to the resin external headlights and glue on the clear lenses supplied in the resin conversion kit.

One of the last steps is to cutout the vac-u-form headlight covers for the bumper. Cutout the vac-u-form headlight covers the best you can and test fit as these are shaped in a way to fit the radius of the front bumper. Its best to use a fine grit sanding file to round the vac-u-form covers to fit in the indention of the headlight holes. This will take some patience.

You can purchase the 935-79 conversion kit HERE
You can purchase the 935-79 conversion kit HERE
You can purchase the 935-79 conversion kit HERE
You can purchase the 935-79 conversion kit HERE
You can purchase the 935-79 conversion kit HERE
You can purchase the 935-79 conversion kit HERE

If you found value in this comprehensive step-by-step blog post, a donation would be greatly appreciated with the PayPal button bellow so I can bring you more posts like this one ~ Thank you, Calvin Sallee – Owner of Hobbitime and Classic Racing Resins

AFFILIATE DISCLOSURE: I am affiliated with a number of offerings on this blog. This includes the links to eBay and also includes the use of Amazon affiliate links. These links help support my blog site so I can bring you more facts and information about this amazing hobby. All the affiliate links and ads on this website are directed towards model building. All products I link towards are products I stand by.

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