1979 Hawaiian Tropic Porsche 935-79 conversion with the Beemax K2 kit

This blog post will cover how to convert a 1/24 Beemax brand Porsche 935 K2 kit into a customer Porsche 935-79 of the Dick Barbour Racing Team cars. I will be building the #70 car which legendary actor-turned-racer Paul Newman drove with Rolf Stommelen and team owner Dick Barbour. This car won the IMSA class in the 1979 24 hours of Le Mans

The Car

There was some differences in the 935-79 car that need to be implemented, like the front bumper, front round grill, different rear fenders, and some slight differences with the rear wing end-plates.

The plastic kit to use

The kit used for this conversion is indeed a fantastic kit, produced by Beemax. The fit and finish is nice! You can buy these kits on eBay HERE

The conversion kit

Click HERE to buy conversion kit

This conversion process will require a resin kit from my website HERE. This conversion process will require the use of superglue, Apoxie Sculpt, sanding, and your eye to do some sculpting. Mostly the rear fender and rear wing will require your eye to achieve the best results possible. I tried to make my resin conversion as easy as possible, but situations, like blending out seams and sanding and cutting out areas to fit the specification of the new parts will require some slight scratch building skills. But after you read this how-to blog, you’ll realize it can be done by anyone with a little bit of model building experience. The conversion kit comes with a resin front bumper, Rear fenders, Vac-U-Form headlight covers for the bumper, and instructions to do these conversions with how-to instructions for rear wing modifications.

Decal options from Indycals

Decals can be purchased at Indycals HERE be sure to select 1/24 scale

Purchase Dick Barbour decal sheets here
Purchase Dick Barbour decal sheets here
Purchase Dick Barbour decal sheets here
Purchase Dick Barbour decal sheets here
Purchase Dick Barbour decal sheets here
Purchase Dick Barbour decal sheets here

The areas marked in black need to be cut out. The little side triangle indention needs to be sanded down flush with the rear bumper.

Cut out the areas that are seen in the picture above. I used a Dremel to do this. Use a file and X-acto knife to de-bur the edges.

This will take a little bit of adjusting as you need to slighted sand down the inside edges of the plastic of the kit fender exit. After the kit plastic and the resin fender match up relatively well, use super glue to attach the new resin fender on.

The process of blending is very important in this next step after the super glue has cured on the attachment of the rear fenders. Blending out the seam between the new resin rear fender and plastic of the kit body is very critical.

Study reference pictures to get the best looking radius on the rear fenders

Blending out the plastic kit bodywork and the resin fender on the inside of the fender. Use Apoxie-Sculpt to fill in any un-level areas.

Add Apoxie-Sculpt in the areas where the rear bumpers would normally go. Level it out with the rest of the bumper shape. Also, fill in the center rear vents as the Barbour cars didn’t have these…

Use a razor saw to cut off the front bumper right under the hood.

Sand the cut area under the hood and super glue the front resin bumper on. Make sure to align the wheel openings correctly. ALSO very important to move the fuel filler up above the original location. The Barbour cars had them higher up. Failing to do so, the decals will not fit under original fuel inlet

After cleaning all the resin parts spray a light coat of Tamiya Primer to find any imperfections.

Rear Wing Modifications

This step will require some scratch building skills. I felt it was easy enough for the model builder to do on their own. Its very simple.

The rear wing end-plates need to be glued on with regular plastic glue to weld the parts together. Then let dry until its solid and not gooey

After the glue is done curing sand the bottom edge of the end-plate and round the edge. I recommend looking at this web page for reference to what the rear wing end-plates look like. It has a nice radius on the bottom edges.

Note the rounded edge under the endplate

Next take a file and sand up the inside 90 degree corner of the inside of the end-plates, because we will be adding Apoxie-Sculpt to give a inside rounded edge.

Use some water to sculpt the Apoxie sculpt with a tool or object that has an approximate radius that is needed for the inside corner. This takes a little bit of “eye-balling” skills

It doesn’t need to be absolutely perfect as after the Apoxie-Sculpt dries we will be able to sand it and clean up the radius.

It takes 24hrs for the Apoxie Sculpt to cure. But its very easy to sand and shape.

As you can see it now has the “stock” rounded rear end-plate look, now. The K2 has a straight cut and 90 degree edges.


I painted the body with Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red with very light coats as red has the tendency to be very thin.

I applied the Indycals which came out very nice. I made sure to use Walters Solvetset Decal setting solution. I recommend using this decal setting solution as it works the best with Indycals.

Front round grill

Cut out a rectangle part of the Beemax kit wire mesh. The size you need to cut out is 0.986″ x 0.828″ (25.04mm x 21.06mm)

Slip the wire mesh through the slit openings on the grill holder resin part.

Curve the wire mesh around the radius of the grill holder.

The sides of the grill are chrome and I painted the screen Aluminium color. I just used Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker on mine.

Its best to use small scissors to cut out the vac-U-form headlight covers.

Its easier to use a fine-grit sanding file to finely round the edge of the headlight cover.

I prefer using ZAP CA glue which is very risky and most people would think I’m absolutely crazy, but if you know how to handle it, it will yield great strong results! But if you don’t want to have hi risk the G-S Hypo cement is the way to go.

The Finish

After the conversions, the rest is all in the Beemax instructions.

Conversion kits available HERE
Conversion kits available HERE
Conversion kits available HERE
Conversion kits available HERE
Conversion kits available HERE
Conversion kits available HERE

If you found value in this comprehensive step-by-step blog post, a donation would be greatly appreciated with the PayPal button below so I can bring you more posts like this one ~ Thank you, Calvin Sallee – Owner of The Model Car Channel and Classic Racing Resins

AFFILIATE DISCLOSURE: I am affiliated with a number of offerings on this blog. This includes the links to eBay and also includes the use of Amazon affiliate links. These links help support my blog site so I can bring you more facts and information about this amazing hobby. All the affiliate links and ads on this website are directed towards model building. All products I link towards are products I stand by.

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